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This is the way I have been doing CV for 15 plus years
with no failures.
First use good cages, Fortin, Bates
(cheapest and never had a problem), Kartek, but not the stock ones.
I use 60 grit Barrel Sanders (3/4 inch
for 930s) in the bearing grooves of the outer race and the star until I
have removed all the broach marks. Then I use a rubberized polishing
sander (the pinkish ones that ORW sells) to polish the grooves to a
mirror finish. The stars need the most attention as they are always the
failure point, polish the heck out of them. I use a handheld belt sander
to round all of the sharp points and edges on the star and remove a lot
more material than you would imagine. I also like to back bore the star
0.100 of an inch for the roll clip to retract into.
Assemble the CV with the outer groove
to each end of the axle and the bigger opening of the cage in. Line up
the points on the outer race and star, big to little, little to big.
Once assembled it should be sloppy loose.
Put the CVs and boots on the axle and
fill the CV from both sides with Bell Ray Assembly Lube in the Caulking
Tube and fill the transmission output flange and stub axle bell with
SwepCo 101 Molly grease using your grease gun. It is clean and easy this
way and the two will mix. The Bell Ray alone seems to get chalky so the
101 gives it a better consistency.
Hand tighten the CV bolts (I like to
use a Box Wrench for final tightening as it has a better leverage point
and is less likely to slip and strip the bolt head) and the re-tighten
them after testing.
Make sure your axle angle is right,
remembering to take into account front to back angle as well, I call it
compound angle, 26.5 is safe for a 930 and I’ve heard of guys going 28
on type 2 but it has been a long time since I used a Type 2.
That should do
ya. You shouldn’t have any problems. |